Make sure you are nailing the inside to the ruff side of the plywood. Using the trigger pattern again locate where the positive stop needs to be located This function is to hold the trigger while multiple rubber bands hold the trigger back.
Make sure the trigger is forward enough to keep from drilling as you drill for the positive stop. Here is the link to the YouTube video Feel free to make them to sell yourself. Did you make this project? Share it with us!
I Made It! Skill Level Beginner Intermediate Advanced. Big Game Gun Woodworking Plan. USD Big Pistol Woodworking Plan. Dueling Pistol Guns Woodworking Plan. Machine Gun Woodworking Plan.
Kentucky Rifle Woodworking Plan. This has to be the coolest looking rubber band gun ever! Designed after the machine gun invented by John T.
Thompson, this one shoots 10 rubber bands. Sign me up. Already have a WordPress. Log in now. This is probably the trickiest part off the project. We used a Jig saw in the video, but if you have access to a scroll saw, that would probably be much easier, but as you can see from the video, it's very doable with the Jig Saw.
Gun Stock - For this, you're going to have to just cut it from many different angles, taking out pieces and nibbling away tight corner pieces until you can fit your blade to make straight cuts. I also didn't bother worrying about the rounded off corners on the back of the butt, those were easy to do with a sheet of sand paper when I was all finished.
If you're having a difficult time with any of the areas, just make sure and try to cut "proud" of the line i. It's always possible to sand and cut material away, it's pretty hard to add it back on.
Rotor Barrels - These just need to be cut from drilled hole to drilled hole. Do your best to follow the arch with your saw blade, but you can always sand it smooth after. String Guides - I started with the inside cuts where the guide pieces will attach to the gun stock. Then just cut along the outside line until the piece is cut out. NOTE: The guides I cut in the video ended up being harder to cut than I thought they would be the shape had more tight rounded corners.
Since this was such a hassle to cut out, I updated the template files to make these parts much easier to cut out and they will function exactly the same way.
Hand Crank - Just need to cut this piece out the best you can following the curves with your saw blade. I just tried to stay on the outside of the line and then I sanded it down to the final shape. Barrel and Hand Crank Spacers - All of the spacers are the same size, so these can all be done at the same time if you need.
These were a little tough to cut out, but not impossible. Again, I just followed the line, and made sure to stay on the outside of it so that I could finish it with sand paper. NOTE: All of the spacers are 2" diameter circles.
If you have access to a 2" hole saw, this would make cutting these out much easier. This is not required though, and is only suggested if you already have access to the hole saw for your drill. We bought our dowels in 48" lengths from the hardware store, and we used 3 rods with some left over. I have also seen dowels sold in 36" lengths, so make sure you have enough dowels for the size you buy. Each barrel will have a curved edge and a flat edge.
The curved edge will point forward on the gun, and the notch is to hold the rubber bands in place. The flat edge will sit in the rear of the gun, and needs to be flat to allow the rubber bands to be pulled up and over the back of the barrel to launch off when spinning the hand crank. Once the hole is drilled in, we just cut the dowel at the center of the drilled hole so that you end up with 2 pieces of dowel that have half circles cut out of one end.
We chose 12" is our barrel length. We felt this was a good length with many rubber bands available in that size range. If you want a longer or shorter barrel, now is the time to decide. We measured from the half circle end and marked 12" on each dowel. We then used the Jig saw to cut them to length. We repeated these steps until we had 10 separate barrels. The length of these can depend on how you assemble your gun, but we chose 1.
Make sure and cut out 10 of them one for each barrel. Also, note in the picture of the assembled barrel rotor assembly the orientation of the barrels. You will need to make sure you twist them to the correct angle when gluing the assembly together. The rotor axel is the part that attaches to the gun stock and allows the barrel rotors to rotate. You want a bit more than you will actually use, and then just trim the rest away during assembly.
Measure and mark the dowel, and cut it at your mark. You will also have to drill a hole into the gun stock that the rotor axel will be glued into. This is probably the trickiest drilling you will have to do. It's important to get this as straight as possible, and to try not to have the drill bit blow out the side of the stock. Go slow and you'll be fine. There are two dowels used by the hand crank.
The one that will work as the axel that spins in the gun stock, and the one that will actually be used by your hand to wind the crank. We cut the axel portion about 6" not less knowing that we would have to cut it down during assembly.
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